Day 1
Athens
Tuesday, October 20
Our long-overdue vacation to Greece began with a rather enjoyable Delta One flight from Boston to Athens. After months of looking forward to this trip, it felt wonderful to finally be on our way, and the comfortable overnight flight certainly made the journey more pleasant. We were among the first passengers off the aircraft when we landed on Tuesday morning, and getting through immigration was surprisingly quick and straightforward. The immigration officer checking our passports, however, didn't seem particularly pleased to see us, which wasn't exactly the warm Greek welcome we'd imagined. Fortunately, the process itself was smooth, and within a short time, we were making our way through the airport toward the train station.
We'd decided to take the metro into Athens rather than arrange a taxi, partly because it seemed straightforward and partly because we thought it would be a nice introduction to the city. Following the airport signs was easy enough, and we eventually found the railway station and figured out how to purchase our tickets. Naturally, before actually boarding the train, we spent an unreasonable amount of time trying to take a decent picture of each other at the station. We must have taken what felt like a million photographs before finally agreeing that one of them looked acceptable, which was probably an early indication of how much time we'd be spending taking pictures throughout the trip. The train arrived about five minutes later than scheduled, and we settled in for the forty-something-minute ride into central Athens, watching the scenery gradually change as we approached the city.
Our first small Greek challenge was the airport ticket machine. Marissa leaned in to decipher the choices while we tried to look as though buying two metro tickets required no concentration at all.
Our stop was Evangelismos, a name that took us several attempts to pronounce correctly. The Greek language was already proving interesting, particularly with its unfamiliar alphabet and place names that looked considerably more complicated than they sounded once someone actually said them. We eventually got off at the correct station and spent a little more time than expected figuring out which direction to walk toward our hotel, Conrad Athens The Ilisian. Fortunately, it wasn't far, and after a little wandering with our luggage, we finally arrived.
The hotel made an excellent first impression. Conrad Athens had only recently reopened following a major transformation of the former Hilton Athens, a landmark property that had been part of the city's skyline for decades. Everything felt fresh, contemporary, and beautifully designed, and the staff seemed genuinely pleased to show us around. What surprised us most was that our room was already available despite arriving so early in the morning. We'd expected to leave our luggage with the concierge and spend several hours exploring before being able to check in, but instead, we were welcomed into the room almost immediately. We received a tour of the property, admired the facilities, and had a chance to freshen up before heading out. After an overnight transatlantic flight, having somewhere comfortable to settle in for a few minutes was a luxury we hadn't counted on. The hotel also gave us a bottle of champagne, which we decided to save for another occasion, not knowing at the time that it would eventually accompany us all the way to Meteora.
Conrad welcomed us with fruit, water, and a room that was ready far earlier than we expected. After the overnight flight, even this quiet arrangement on the table felt wonderfully extravagant.
Once we'd dropped off our belongings, we headed out on foot toward the historic center of Athens. We'd planned to spend the day exploring the Acropolis and some of the surrounding attractions, but our first stop was the Panathenaic Stadium, which was conveniently located along our walking route. Originally, we'd intended to admire it from outside, take a few photographs, and continue walking. Once we got there, however, the stadium looked interesting enough that we decided to purchase tickets and go inside. That turned out to be one of the best spontaneous decisions of the day.
The Panathenaic Stadium is remarkable not only for its scale and beautiful white marble but also for the way it connects ancient Greek athletics with the modern Olympic movement. Athletic competitions took place at this location as far back as the fourth century BC, and the stadium was later rebuilt in marble during the Roman period. After centuries of disuse, it was restored in the nineteenth century and became the principal venue for the first modern Olympic Games in 1896. The stadium is sometimes called Kallimarmaro, meaning "beautifully marbled," which seemed entirely appropriate once we were standing inside and looking at the enormous rows of white marble seating surrounding the track.
Our first look from inside the Panathenaic Stadium finally revealed the scale of its long marble bowl. We took the obligatory selfie, still not realizing how much there was to explore beneath the seats.
We spent quite a bit of time exploring the stadium, climbing through the seating areas, walking around its perimeter, and taking photographs from different perspectives. It was fascinating to imagine thousands of spectators gathering in this same space, first for athletic competitions in antiquity and then again when the Olympic Games were revived in the modern era. But one of the most memorable sights had nothing to do with a formal tour or historical monument. There was a group of elementary schoolchildren having what appeared to be their regular PE lesson on the grounds. Watching them run around and participate in ordinary school activities inside such a historically significant venue was both amusing and strangely touching. For these children, perhaps it was simply another day of PE, while we were standing there marveling at the idea that they were exercising in the stadium where the modern Olympic movement began.
Marissa entered the cool vaulted tunnel that runs beneath the stadium seating. The rough stone passage felt like an entirely different world from the sunlit marble bowl outside.
Of course, I couldn't resist the opportunity to run a lap around the track myself. It seemed like something worth doing, if only to be able to say that I'd run at an Olympic stadium. What I hadn't fully appreciated was how tiring it would feel after an overnight flight and a morning of walking. By the time I finished, I was sweating considerably more than I'd expected, although I was still quite pleased with myself. According to Marissa, completing that single lap took approximately three hours, which I maintain is a wildly inaccurate assessment of my athletic performance. Nevertheless, she seemed to enjoy reminding me of it for the rest of the day.
After leaving the stadium, we continued walking toward the National Garden, although we never quite managed the leisurely stroll through the grounds that we'd originally imagined. The garden itself dates to the nineteenth century, when it was developed as part of the royal palace grounds, and today it provides a large green space in the middle of an otherwise densely developed city. We mostly followed the surrounding streets rather than explore the garden in any depth, eventually stopping at a nearby café for something to drink.
That turned into a much longer break than we'd anticipated. The drinks took what felt like an eternity to arrive, and we began joking that perhaps someone had gone out to harvest the ingredients rather than simply prepare our order. Fortunately, the delay gave us time to observe our surroundings, including one particularly unexpected sight: a turtle attempting to cross a busy road. At first, we assumed it must have been someone's escaped pet, because seeing a turtle casually navigating city traffic seemed rather unusual. But as the day progressed, we encountered several more, eventually counting four turtles in total, along with a surprising number of parrots flying around the city. We'd expected Athens to be full of ancient monuments, tourists, and traffic, but we certainly hadn't anticipated encountering so much wildlife in the middle of the capital.
Once our drinks finally arrived and we'd recovered a little from the morning's activities, we continued toward the Acropolis. By now, we'd already spent several hours exploring, and the weather had been remarkably pleasant. The sun was warm without being overwhelming, while the shaded streets remained comfortably cool, a combination that made walking around the city particularly enjoyable. We entered the archaeological site through the South Slope entrance, waited briefly in line, and began following the paths uphill toward the Parthenon.
One of the first major structures we encountered was the Theatre of Dionysus, built into the southern slope of the Acropolis. I knew that ancient Greece had made enormous contributions to theater and drama, but standing in front of the remains gave that history a much more tangible quality. This was one of the places where Greek tragedy and comedy developed into the theatrical traditions that continue to influence literature and performance today. Playwrights such as Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides, and Aristophanes had their works performed here during festivals honoring Dionysus, the god associated with wine, fertility, and theater. It's interesting to think that performances in ancient Athens weren't simply entertainment in the modern sense; they were also important civic and religious occasions, bringing people together to reflect on questions involving morality, power, family, and human behavior. Looking at the surviving stone seating, it was remarkable to imagine an audience gathering here more than two thousand years ago to experience stories that are still studied and performed around the world.
The climb toward the Acropolis began beside the stone seating and stage remains on the South Slope. Even before reaching the summit, Athens was already revealing one historic layer after another.
From the theater, we continued climbing toward the upper Acropolis, gradually making our way through the ancient ruins until the enormous columns of the Parthenon came into view. We'd both seen countless photographs of the structure, but seeing it in person was considerably more impressive than we'd expected. The building was enormous, and the surviving columns seemed even more massive against the surrounding sky. There was something extraordinary about standing beside a structure that had endured nearly two and a half millennia of history, particularly when considering how much of that history had unfolded after its original construction.
The Parthenon was built in the fifth century BC, during the period often regarded as the height of classical Athens, and was dedicated to Athena, the city's patron goddess. It was both a religious monument and a powerful expression of Athenian wealth, confidence, and cultural achievement. Over the centuries, the building served different religious purposes, suffered damage through warfare and neglect, and underwent repeated efforts at preservation and restoration. One of the most devastating events occurred in 1687, when an explosion during a Venetian bombardment destroyed much of the structure. Knowing that history made the surviving architecture seem even more remarkable, although at the time, we were mostly occupied with admiring how enormous everything looked and trying to capture it in photographs.
No photograph quite conveyed the scale of the Parthenon once we were standing beside it. We circled the building, looking at the surviving columns, restoration work, and changing proportions from every angle, while the hard blue sky made the marble seem almost impossibly bright.
We spent a good amount of time walking around the summit, looking at the Parthenon and the other ancient structures, including the Erechtheion with its famous Caryatid figures. From the top, we could see Athens stretching across the landscape in almost every direction, an enormous expanse of buildings surrounded by mountains. It was difficult to reconcile that modern city with the relatively small collection of ancient monuments beneath our feet, particularly when thinking about how influential Athens had once been in shaping ideas about politics, philosophy, art, and education. We kept stopping to admire different views, taking photographs of the ruins and the city below, and occasionally simply looking around without saying much because the setting was so impressive.
The Erechtheion and its Caryatids offered a more intimate counterpoint to the Parthenon. We each posed near the temple, trying to look composed while navigating the uneven stone and the steady flow of visitors around us.
We also FaceTimed the girls while we were up there, partly because we wanted to show them where we were and partly because we thought it would be funny to remind them what a wonderful time we were having without them. We jokingly explained what a wonderful time we were having and what a wonderful time they were missing, although we couldn't help imagining how entertaining it would have been to watch them explore a place like this. Parenting at its finest, apparently.
Eventually, we decided we'd seen enough and began making our way down from the Acropolis. Leaving the Acropolis was less straightforward than getting there. We somehow managed to follow a path that took us about half an hour in the wrong direction before ending at a dead end, leaving us with no choice but to retrace our steps. By this point, Marissa was becoming increasingly hungry, and our leisurely historical exploration was beginning to feel more like a test of marital patience.
We eventually found our way back toward the streets of Plaka and began searching for somewhere to eat. We spent some time browsing the souvenir shops while searching for food, although much of the merchandise looked rather cheap and touristy. There were endless variations of miniature ancient monuments, magnets, decorative objects, and assorted souvenirs that seemed designed primarily to remind visitors they'd been to Greece. Naturally, despite our less-than-enthusiastic assessment of the merchandise, we still managed to buy something. We also noticed an unexpectedly prominent theme involving male anatomy, both in the form of graffiti on walls and novelty items displayed in the shops. There were an astonishing number of penis-shaped bottle openers and other souvenirs, enough that we began wondering whether we'd somehow missed an important cultural explanation.
A cluster of cats had claimed a fenced archaeological corner as their own private district. They regarded the ancient stones—and us—with the calm ownership of residents who had been there much longer.
Interestingly, phallic imagery did have symbolic significance in parts of the ancient Greek world, where it could be associated with fertility, protection, and good fortune, rather than being viewed exclusively through the sexual or humorous associations we might make today. That historical background doesn't necessarily explain the abundance of novelty bottle openers being sold to modern tourists, but it did make the whole phenomenon a little more interesting. Mostly, though, we just found it funny how often we encountered the same theme while walking through the city. It certainly wasn't something we'd expected to remember from our first day exploring the birthplace of Western philosophy.
After finally finding somewhere to eat and giving Marissa a much-needed opportunity to recover from the combination of hunger and unnecessary walking, we began heading back toward Conrad. Rather than retrace exactly the same route we'd taken earlier, we found ourselves walking through a different part of Athens, passing an area with numerous foreign embassies and impressive institutional buildings. The streets felt quieter and more formal than the crowded historic neighborhoods we'd just left, offering another glimpse of the city's character. We didn't make it to the Parliament building itself, despite passing through the broader diplomatic district, but by then we'd already seen enough for one day and were mainly focused on getting back to the hotel.
By the time we finally arrived at Conrad, we were ready for some serious relaxation. We'd spent most of the day on our feet, climbed around an Olympic stadium, explored the Acropolis, wandered through several neighborhoods, and somehow added an entirely unnecessary half-hour walk to nowhere. We changed into more comfortable clothes and headed downstairs, hoping to enjoy the hotel's beautiful outdoor swimming pool. Unfortunately, it was closed, which was particularly disappointing given how pleasant the weather had been throughout the day.
The indoor pool was available, but the water turned out to be much colder than either of us wanted, and there wasn't a hot tub to retreat to. After briefly considering our options, we decided to spend some time in the sauna instead. That was considerably more enjoyable, although the combination of warmth, accumulated fatigue, and a long day of sightseeing almost put us both to sleep. We eventually dragged ourselves back upstairs, showered, and returned downstairs for a drink at the lounge.
Later in the evening, we found ourselves outside near the poolside lounge chairs, which turned out to be one of the nicest places to relax at the hotel. The weather was still beautiful, the surrounding views were lovely, and the atmosphere was much quieter than the streets we'd spent the day exploring. There were also several cats wandering around the property, although they didn't seem particularly interested in making friends with us. We attempted to interact with them, but they clearly had their own priorities and weren't especially impressed by our presence.
Sitting there, finally able to relax without worrying about where we needed to walk next, it began to feel like the vacation we'd been looking forward to for so long. We'd managed to accomplish an extraordinary amount on our first day, particularly considering we'd arrived that very morning after an overnight flight. Not everything had gone according to plan, and we'd certainly underestimated how much walking we'd end up doing, but some of the most enjoyable experiences had been things we hadn't originally intended to do. Going inside the Panathenaic Stadium was one of them, as was discovering the turtles and parrots around Athens. Even our navigational mistakes and the ridiculous souvenir shops had given us stories we'd probably remember long after the trip.
By the time we eventually returned to our room, we were completely exhausted and more than ready for bed. It had been a full day of ancient monuments, Olympic history, beautiful architecture, unexpected wildlife, questionable souvenirs, and a surprising amount of physical activity. But more than anything, it had been the beginning of something we'd both needed for a long time: an opportunity to step away from our usual routines, explore somewhere unfamiliar, and simply spend time together. We'd only been in Greece for a day, but we were already beginning to appreciate how much the country had to offer, and we still had several days of exploring ahead of us.
Our first small Greek challenge was the airport ticket machine. Marissa leaned in to decipher the choices while we tried to look as though buying two metro tickets required no concentration at all.
Conrad welcomed us with fruit, water, and a room that was ready far earlier than we expected. After the overnight flight, even this quiet arrangement on the table felt wonderfully extravagant.
Our first look from inside the Panathenaic Stadium finally revealed the scale of its long marble bowl. We took the obligatory selfie, still not realizing how much there was to explore beneath the seats.
Marissa entered the cool vaulted tunnel that runs beneath the stadium seating. The rough stone passage felt like an entirely different world from the sunlit marble bowl outside.
The climb toward the Acropolis began beside the stone seating and stage remains on the South Slope. Even before reaching the summit, Athens was already revealing one historic layer after another.
No photograph quite conveyed the scale of the Parthenon once we were standing beside it. We circled the building, looking at the surviving columns, restoration work, and changing proportions from every angle, while the hard blue sky made the marble seem almost impossibly bright.
The Erechtheion and its Caryatids offered a more intimate counterpoint to the Parthenon. We each posed near the temple, trying to look composed while navigating the uneven stone and the steady flow of visitors around us.
A cluster of cats had claimed a fenced archaeological corner as their own private district. They regarded the ancient stones—and us—with the calm ownership of residents who had been there much longer.
What We Originally PlannedOpen the day plan
- Land at Athens International AirportClear arrivals, collect our luggage, and make our way to the airport metro station.
- Take Metro Line 3 into AthensRide directly to Evangelismos, then walk the final few blocks with our luggage to Conrad Athens The Ilisian.
- Check in and reset at the hotelLeave the bags, take a quick look around the property, and resist the temptation to spend the day beside the pool.
- Walk to the Panathenaic StadiumExplore the marble stadium, its track and tunnel, and the site of the first modern Olympic Games.
- Cross the National GardenUse the garden as the walking route toward the ancient monuments on the south side of central Athens.
- See the Temple of Olympian Zeus and Hadrian’s ArchPause at the monumental remains before continuing toward the Acropolis.
- Climb the AcropolisEnter by the southern slope, pass the Theatre of Dionysus, and continue to the Propylaea, Parthenon, and Erechtheion.
- Visit the Acropolis MuseumAdd the museum if our energy and the remaining opening hours made an indoor visit appealing.
- Wander through Anafiotika and PlakaCome down from the Acropolis through the small lanes below it and explore without a strict route.
- Have dinner and return to ConradChoose somewhere in the old city for dinner, then take a taxi back rather than retracing the entire walk.
This was our working itinerary before the day began—not a record of what we ultimately did.
Day 1
Tuesday, October 20 · Athens
Our long-overdue vacation to Greece began with a rather enjoyable Delta One flight from Boston to Athens. After months of looking forward to this trip, it felt wonderful to finally be on our way, and the comfortable overnight flight certainly made the journey more pleasant. We were among the first passengers off the aircraft when we landed on Tuesday morning, and getting through immigration was surprisingly quick and straightforward. The immigration officer checking our passports, however, didn't seem particularly pleased to see us, which wasn't exactly the warm Greek welcome we'd imagined. Fortunately, the process itself was smooth, and within a short time, we were making our way through the airport toward the train station.
We'd decided to take the metro into Athens rather than arrange a taxi, partly because it seemed straightforward and partly because we thought it would be a nice introduction to the city. Following the airport signs was easy enough, and we eventually found the railway station and figured out how to purchase our tickets. Naturally, before actually boarding the train, we spent an unreasonable amount of time trying to take a decent picture of each other at the station. We must have taken what felt like a million photographs before finally agreeing that one of them looked acceptable, which was probably an early indication of how much time we'd be spending taking pictures throughout the trip. The train arrived about five minutes later than scheduled, and we settled in for the forty-something-minute ride into central Athens, watching the scenery gradually change as we approached the city.
Our stop was Evangelismos, a name that took us several attempts to pronounce correctly. The Greek language was already proving interesting, particularly with its unfamiliar alphabet and place names that looked considerably more complicated than they sounded once someone actually said them. We eventually got off at the correct station and spent a little more time than expected figuring out which direction to walk toward our hotel, Conrad Athens The Ilisian. Fortunately, it wasn't far, and after a little wandering with our luggage, we finally arrived.
The hotel made an excellent first impression. Conrad Athens had only recently reopened following a major transformation of the former Hilton Athens, a landmark property that had been part of the city's skyline for decades. Everything felt fresh, contemporary, and beautifully designed, and the staff seemed genuinely pleased to show us around. What surprised us most was that our room was already available despite arriving so early in the morning. We'd expected to leave our luggage with the concierge and spend several hours exploring before being able to check in, but instead, we were welcomed into the room almost immediately. We received a tour of the property, admired the facilities, and had a chance to freshen up before heading out. After an overnight transatlantic flight, having somewhere comfortable to settle in for a few minutes was a luxury we hadn't counted on. The hotel also gave us a bottle of champagne, which we decided to save for another occasion, not knowing at the time that it would eventually accompany us all the way to Meteora.
Once we'd dropped off our belongings, we headed out on foot toward the historic center of Athens. We'd planned to spend the day exploring the Acropolis and some of the surrounding attractions, but our first stop was the Panathenaic Stadium, which was conveniently located along our walking route. Originally, we'd intended to admire it from outside, take a few photographs, and continue walking. Once we got there, however, the stadium looked interesting enough that we decided to purchase tickets and go inside. That turned out to be one of the best spontaneous decisions of the day.
The Panathenaic Stadium is remarkable not only for its scale and beautiful white marble but also for the way it connects ancient Greek athletics with the modern Olympic movement. Athletic competitions took place at this location as far back as the fourth century BC, and the stadium was later rebuilt in marble during the Roman period. After centuries of disuse, it was restored in the nineteenth century and became the principal venue for the first modern Olympic Games in 1896. The stadium is sometimes called Kallimarmaro, meaning "beautifully marbled," which seemed entirely appropriate once we were standing inside and looking at the enormous rows of white marble seating surrounding the track.
We spent quite a bit of time exploring the stadium, climbing through the seating areas, walking around its perimeter, and taking photographs from different perspectives. It was fascinating to imagine thousands of spectators gathering in this same space, first for athletic competitions in antiquity and then again when the Olympic Games were revived in the modern era. But one of the most memorable sights had nothing to do with a formal tour or historical monument. There was a group of elementary schoolchildren having what appeared to be their regular physical education lesson on the grounds. Watching them run around and participate in ordinary school activities inside such a historically significant venue was both amusing and strangely touching. For these children, perhaps it was simply another day of PE, while we were standing there marveling at the idea that they were exercising in the stadium where the modern Olympic movement began.
Of course, I couldn't resist the opportunity to run a lap around the track myself. It seemed like something worth doing, if only to be able to say that I'd run at an Olympic stadium. What I hadn't fully appreciated was how tiring it would feel after an overnight flight and a morning of walking. By the time I finished, I was sweating considerably more than I'd expected, although I was still quite pleased with myself. According to Marissa, completing that single lap took approximately three hours, which I maintain is a wildly inaccurate assessment of my athletic performance. Nevertheless, she seemed to enjoy reminding me of it for the rest of the day.
After leaving the stadium, we continued walking toward the National Garden, although we never quite managed the leisurely stroll through the grounds that we'd originally imagined. The garden itself dates to the nineteenth century, when it was developed as part of the royal palace grounds, and today it provides a large green space in the middle of an otherwise densely developed city. We mostly followed the surrounding streets rather than explore the garden in any depth, eventually stopping at a nearby café for something to drink.
That turned into a much longer break than we'd anticipated. The drinks took what felt like an eternity to arrive, and we began joking that perhaps someone had gone out to harvest the ingredients rather than simply prepare our order. Fortunately, the delay gave us time to observe our surroundings, including one particularly unexpected sight: a turtle attempting to cross a busy road. At first, we assumed it must have been someone's escaped pet, because seeing a turtle casually navigating city traffic seemed rather unusual. But as the day progressed, we encountered several more, eventually counting four turtles in total, along with a surprising number of parrots flying around the city. We'd expected Athens to be full of ancient monuments, tourists, and traffic, but we certainly hadn't anticipated encountering so much wildlife in the middle of the capital.
Once our drinks finally arrived and we'd recovered a little from the morning's activities, we continued toward the Acropolis. By now, we'd already spent several hours exploring, and the weather had been remarkably pleasant. The sun was warm without being overwhelming, while the shaded streets remained comfortably cool, a combination that made walking around the city particularly enjoyable. We entered the archaeological site through the South Slope entrance, waited briefly in line, and began following the paths uphill toward the Parthenon.
One of the first major structures we encountered was the Theatre of Dionysus, built into the southern slope of the Acropolis. I knew that ancient Greece had made enormous contributions to theater and drama, but standing in front of the remains gave that history a much more tangible quality. This was one of the places where Greek tragedy and comedy developed into the theatrical traditions that continue to influence literature and performance today. Playwrights such as Aeschylus, Sophocles, Euripides, and Aristophanes had their works performed here during festivals honoring Dionysus, the god associated with wine, fertility, and theater. It's interesting to think that performances in ancient Athens weren't simply entertainment in the modern sense; they were also important civic and religious occasions, bringing people together to reflect on questions involving morality, power, family, and human behavior. Looking at the surviving stone seating, it was remarkable to imagine an audience gathering here more than two thousand years ago to experience stories that are still studied and performed around the world.
From the theater, we continued climbing toward the upper Acropolis, gradually making our way through the ancient ruins until the enormous columns of the Parthenon came into view. We'd both seen countless photographs of the structure, but seeing it in person was considerably more impressive than we'd expected. The building was enormous, and the surviving columns seemed even more massive against the surrounding sky. There was something extraordinary about standing beside a structure that had endured nearly two and a half millennia of history, particularly when considering how much of that history had unfolded after its original construction.
The Parthenon was built in the fifth century BC, during the period often regarded as the height of classical Athens, and was dedicated to Athena, the city's patron goddess. It was both a religious monument and a powerful expression of Athenian wealth, confidence, and cultural achievement. Over the centuries, the building served different religious purposes, suffered damage through warfare and neglect, and underwent repeated efforts at preservation and restoration. One of the most devastating events occurred in 1687, when an explosion during a Venetian bombardment destroyed much of the structure. Knowing that history made the surviving architecture seem even more remarkable, although at the time, we were mostly occupied with admiring how enormous everything looked and trying to capture it in photographs.
We spent a good amount of time walking around the summit, looking at the Parthenon and the other ancient structures, including the Erechtheion with its famous Caryatid figures. From the top, we could see Athens stretching across the landscape in almost every direction, an enormous expanse of buildings surrounded by mountains. It was difficult to reconcile that modern city with the relatively small collection of ancient monuments beneath our feet, particularly when thinking about how influential Athens had once been in shaping ideas about politics, philosophy, art, and education. We kept stopping to admire different views, taking photographs of the ruins and the city below, and occasionally simply looking around without saying much because the setting was so impressive.
We also FaceTimed the girls while we were up there, partly because we wanted to show them where we were and partly because we thought it would be funny to remind them what a wonderful time we were having without them. We jokingly showed off the ancient ruins and the beautiful scenery, making sure they understood exactly what they were missing. Parenting at its finest, apparently. Of course, we also found ourselves imagining how they might have reacted if they'd actually been there with us, although after all the walking and climbing we'd already done, I wasn't entirely convinced that bringing two young children up the Acropolis would have been quite as relaxing as our little video call made it seem.
Eventually, we decided we'd seen enough and began making our way down from the Acropolis. Unfortunately, leaving the archaeological site turned out to be considerably less straightforward than we'd anticipated. Somehow, we followed a path that seemed perfectly reasonable at first but eventually led us in entirely the wrong direction. We kept walking, assuming it would eventually connect to the streets below, only to discover after approximately half an hour that we'd reached a dead end. There wasn't much we could do except turn around and retrace our steps, which was particularly frustrating after we'd already spent so much time walking uphill and downhill throughout the morning.
Marissa was becoming increasingly hungry by this point, and our leisurely historical exploration was beginning to feel more like an endurance exercise. I was still trying to figure out where we'd gone wrong, while she was understandably more concerned about finding somewhere to eat. We eventually made our way back toward the surrounding neighborhoods, where the narrow streets were filled with little souvenir shops, cafés, and restaurants. It was nice to be back among the activity of the city, even if we'd taken a rather unnecessary detour to get there.
We spent some time browsing the souvenir shops while searching for food, although much of the merchandise looked rather cheap and touristy. There were endless variations of miniature ancient monuments, magnets, decorative objects, and assorted souvenirs that seemed designed primarily to remind visitors they'd been to Greece. Naturally, despite our less-than-enthusiastic assessment of the merchandise, we still managed to buy something. We also noticed an unexpectedly prominent theme involving male anatomy, both in the form of graffiti on walls and novelty items displayed in the shops. There were an astonishing number of penis-shaped bottle openers and other souvenirs, enough that we began wondering whether we'd somehow missed an important cultural explanation.
Interestingly, phallic imagery did have symbolic significance in parts of the ancient Greek world, where it could be associated with fertility, protection, and good fortune, rather than being viewed exclusively through the sexual or humorous associations we might make today. That historical background doesn't necessarily explain the abundance of novelty bottle openers being sold to modern tourists, but it did make the whole phenomenon a little more interesting. Mostly, though, we just found it funny how often we encountered the same theme while walking through the city. It certainly wasn't something we'd expected to remember from our first day exploring the birthplace of Western philosophy.
After finally finding somewhere to eat and giving Marissa a much-needed opportunity to recover from the combination of hunger and unnecessary walking, we began heading back toward Conrad. Rather than retrace exactly the same route we'd taken earlier, we found ourselves walking through a different part of Athens, passing an area with numerous foreign embassies and impressive institutional buildings. The streets felt quieter and more formal than the crowded historic neighborhoods we'd just left, offering another glimpse of the city's character. We didn't make it to the Parliament building itself, despite passing through the broader diplomatic district, but by then we'd already seen enough for one day and were mainly focused on getting back to the hotel.
By the time we finally arrived at Conrad, we were ready for some serious relaxation. We'd spent most of the day on our feet, climbed around an Olympic stadium, explored the Acropolis, wandered through several neighborhoods, and somehow added an entirely unnecessary half-hour walk to nowhere. We changed into more comfortable clothes and headed downstairs, hoping to enjoy the hotel's beautiful outdoor swimming pool. Unfortunately, it was closed, which was particularly disappointing given how pleasant the weather had been throughout the day.
The indoor pool was available, but the water turned out to be much colder than either of us wanted, and there wasn't a hot tub to retreat to. After briefly considering our options, we decided to spend some time in the sauna instead. That was considerably more enjoyable, although the combination of warmth, accumulated fatigue, and a long day of sightseeing almost put us both to sleep. We eventually dragged ourselves back upstairs, showered, and returned downstairs for a drink at the lounge.
Later in the evening, we found ourselves outside near the poolside lounge chairs, which turned out to be one of the nicest places to relax at the hotel. The weather was still beautiful, the surrounding views were lovely, and the atmosphere was much quieter than the streets we'd spent the day exploring. There were also several cats wandering around the property, although they didn't seem particularly interested in making friends with us. We attempted to interact with them, but they clearly had their own priorities and weren't especially impressed by our presence.
Sitting there, finally able to relax without worrying about where we needed to walk next, it began to feel like the vacation we'd been looking forward to for so long. We'd managed to accomplish an extraordinary amount on our first day, particularly considering we'd arrived that very morning after an overnight flight. Not everything had gone according to plan, and we'd certainly underestimated how much walking we'd end up doing, but some of the most enjoyable experiences had been things we hadn't originally intended to do. Going inside the Panathenaic Stadium was one of them, as was discovering the turtles and parrots around Athens. Even our navigational mistakes and the ridiculous souvenir shops had given us stories we'd probably remember long after the trip.
By the time we eventually returned to our room, we were completely exhausted and more than ready for bed. It had been a full day of ancient monuments, Olympic history, beautiful architecture, unexpected wildlife, questionable souvenirs, and a surprising amount of physical activity. But more than anything, it had been the beginning of something we'd both needed for a long time: an opportunity to step away from our usual routines, explore somewhere unfamiliar, and simply spend time together. We'd only been in Greece for a day, but we were already beginning to appreciate how much the country had to offer, and we still had several days of exploring ahead of us.
What We Originally Planned
Tuesday, October 20 — Athens
Our first-day approach: Airport metro → hotel → a scenic walk through Athens → Acropolis → wander Plaka → Greek dinner → taxi back. Times were suggested, not reservations; the Conrad stay was confirmed, but sightseeing tickets had not been confirmed.
7:35–8:45 AM · Arrival — Land at Athens International Airport, allow time for passport control, baggage, and arrivals.
~8:45–9:55 AM · Metro — Take Metro Line 3 toward Dimotiko Theatro from the airport to Evangelismos, with no transfers. Follow Trains/Metro upstairs and across the bridge; choose the metro rather than the suburban railway. Contactless Visa, Mastercard, Apple Pay, or Google Pay was expected to work, one card or device per person, or buy two €9 tickets and retain them. Exit at Evangelismos toward Vasilissis Sofias/National Gallery. Estimated fare: €18 total.
~10:00–10:30 AM · Hotel — Drop bags at Conrad Athens The Ilisian, Leoforos Vasilissis Sofias 46, and ask about early check-in.
~10:30–11:00 AM · Panathenaic Stadium — Walk 15–20 minutes along Vasilissis Sofias and Vasileos Konstantinou; admire the stadium from outside and skip the paid interior.
~11:00–11:30 AM · National Garden & Zappeion — Cross from the stadium and follow the palm-lined paths toward the Zappeion and Vasilissis Amalias.
~11:30 AM–12:00 PM · Temple of Olympian Zeus & Hadrian’s Arch — View both monuments from outside.
12:00–1:15 PM · Lunch — Have a slow Greek lunch near Lysikratous Street: gyros, souvlaki, or salad. Not booked.
2:00–4:00 PM · Acropolis & Parthenon — Enter through the western side and visit the Propylaea, Parthenon, Erechtheion, Temple of Athena Nike, and city viewpoints. The 2 PM timed entry was proposed, not reserved; arrive 20 minutes early and take care on the slippery marble. Suggested price: €30 per adult.
~4:10–5:20 PM · Acropolis Museum — Optional; visit the Caryatids, sculpture galleries, and Parthenon Gallery, or move this to Wednesday if tired. Separate ticket expected to be €20 per adult.
~5:30–6:45 PM · Anafiotika & Plaka — Wander the whitewashed lanes and historic streets while respecting the residential areas.
~7:00–8:30 PM · Dinner — Choose a traditional Plaka taverna; Taverna Platanos was a candidate, subject to opening hours and table availability.
~8:30–9:00 PM · Return — Use Uber or FREENOW from a vehicle-accessible street, confirm the pickup and plate, and taxi back to Conrad. Estimated fare: €10–15.